Risotto is one of those dishes that feels more elaborate than it is. The method is steady rather than difficult: soften the aromatics, toast the rice, then add warm stock a little at a time while the grains release their starch.

This autumn version pairs that creamy base with mushrooms, crisp pancetta and a small amount of gorgonzola. Parmesan rounds out the finish, while aged balsamic adds a clean, tangy counterpoint to the richness.

Seasonal and adaptable

Use portabella, cremini or a mixture of fresh mushrooms. Dried porcini can bring extra depth when steeped in warm stock, and vegetable or mushroom stock works in place of chicken stock. Keep the stock hot so the rice cooks evenly and the pan does not lose momentum.

The wine pairing is equally flexible. A lightly earthy Pinot Noir complements the mushrooms without overwhelming the dish; look for freshness and moderate oak rather than heavy sweetness.

Risotto is best served immediately. If it tightens while standing, loosen it with a spoonful of hot stock just before bringing it to the table.
Recipe file · Serves 4

Mushroom-Pancetta Risotto

Allow about 35 minutes from the first chop to the final stir.

Ingredients

  • 6 cups chicken, mushroom or vegetable stock
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 ounces pancetta, roughly chopped
  • 1 small onion, finely minced
  • 2½ cups fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
  • 1½ cups arborio rice
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • ¼ cup dry white wine
  • 1 ounce gorgonzola, crumbled
  • ½ cup finely grated Parmesan
  • 2 tablespoons aged or reduced balsamic vinegar
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Method

  1. Warm the stock in a saucepan and keep it at a low simmer.
  2. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until crisp. Transfer it to a paper-lined plate.
  3. Add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms and cook for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the rice and thyme until every grain is coated, then add the wine and cook until mostly absorbed.
  4. Add about ½ cup of hot stock. Stir regularly until nearly absorbed, then repeat with more stock.
  5. Continue for 20–25 minutes, until the rice is tender with a slight bite. You may not need all the stock.
  6. Remove from the heat. Stir in the cheeses, cover and rest for five minutes. Season with pepper, then finish with the pancetta and balsamic vinegar.
Mushrooms and herbs prepared for a warm risotto
A mix of mushrooms gives the finished dish more texture and depth.

Serve it generously

Spoon the risotto into warm bowls while it is still fluid enough to settle on the plate. Add a final grind of pepper and a few drops of balsamic rather than covering the delicate mushroom flavor with too much garnish.

For a meatless version, use vegetable stock and leave out the pancetta. Add a little extra olive oil or butter at the end, and finish with toasted hazelnuts for contrast.