The seasonal catch

For fish lovers in Turkey, late autumn brings hamsi, the small anchovies of the Black Sea. Between mid- and late October they begin appearing in Istanbul’s fish markets: silver and dark, piled high, refreshed with cold water and valued for their abundance. Restaurants add hamsili dishes to their menus, while diners debate the best way to prepare them—floured and fried, baked with rice or cooked over a grill.

The country’s supply comes largely from the cold Black Sea. Along the northern coast, especially in fishing towns such as Amasra and Sinop, the season becomes a defining part of daily life. Cooks fold anchovies into breads, omelettes and onion-rich casseroles, combine them with cornmeal, shape them into fritters and build entire meals around their clean, briny flavor.

A seafood dish served with lemon and fresh herbs
The best hamsi preparations keep the fish simple: heat, flour, lemon and a little patience.

Abundance, and the question of sustainability

In a Black Sea town during the season, the supply can appear endless. Yet fish sellers and coastal communities have long noticed changes in where the catch is found and how far boats must travel. Fleets may move eastward as the season progresses, following concentrations of fish toward waters farther from the Turkish coast.

That observation does not by itself explain the causes. Reliable long-term records for local stocks have historically been limited, and natural population cycles, pollution, fishing pressure and changes in the wider marine environment can overlap. The responsible question is therefore less about a single season than about consistent monitoring and management that protects both the fishery and the communities that depend on it.

For cooks, the practical lesson is equally straightforward: treat small oily fish as a seasonal ingredient, buy from a trusted source and let freshness do most of the work.

A Laz specialty: anchovy pilaf

One of the most memorable preparations from Turkey’s eastern Black Sea region is hamsili pilav. Anchovy fillets line a buttered round pan, forming a savory crust around rice scented with onion, pine nuts, currants, lemon and dill. The finished dish is baked until the fish is lightly crisp and the rice is tender, then turned out and served in wedges.

The method takes time, particularly if the fish still need cleaning, but it rewards careful preparation. Fresh sardines can stand in when anchovies are unavailable; thinly sliced mackerel is another workable substitute.

Recipe file

Hamsili Pilav

Anchovy pilaf, adapted for a home kitchen.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup Turkish baldo rice, or Spanish bomba rice
  • Softened butter, for greasing the pan
  • ¾ kilo fresh anchovies, cleaned and filleted
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • ½ tablespoon butter
  • 1 medium onion, finely minced
  • ¾ cup chopped dill
  • ¼ cup chopped wheat grass, optional
  • 2 heaping tablespoons pine nuts
  • ¼ cup small currants
  • 2 teaspoons lemon juice
  • Salt

Method

  1. Soak the rice in water for one hour, then drain.
  2. Heat the oven to 400°F. Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 12-inch round heavy cake pan.
  3. Clean and fillet the anchovies. Pat the fillets dry and set them aside.
  4. Warm the olive oil and butter in a skillet. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat until soft but not browned.
  5. Add the drained rice and stir for about one minute. Add 1½ cups hot water, ½ teaspoon salt and the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
  6. Stir in the currants. Cover, reduce the heat and cook for eight minutes.
  7. Fold in the dill and optional wheat grass, then remove from the heat.
  8. Arrange anchovy fillets in a slightly overlapping pinwheel across the base of the pan, continuing up the sides. Spoon in the rice and smooth the surface.
  9. Arrange the remaining fillets over the rice, leaving small gaps. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 20 minutes.
  10. Remove the foil and bake for another 30–35 minutes, until the fish is browned and the rice is dry. If liquid remains, drain it carefully and bake for a few more minutes.
  11. Place a plate over the pan and carefully invert the pilaf. Cut into wedges and serve immediately, with lemon if desired.

Serve the pilaf with a fresh salad of arugula, parsley, dill, mint and pomegranate, dressed with olive oil, lemon juice and pomegranate molasses. The contrast of herbs and acidity brings the rich fish and buttery rice into balance.

This edited archive presentation preserves the dish’s culinary context while updating the language for clarity and practical home cooking.

Reader notes

Questions about the method? Write to info@zestdaily.com-us.com and mention “Anchovy Season in Turkey.”